Strange things happen when a poor writer is overwhelmed by records, as I had completely lost track of Steve Hubback’s production since the late eighties; mea culpa. This recording brought me back to an intelligent percussionist who works in anti-pyrotechnical territories, his minimal economy of movement giving birth to a rich resonance that the mind accepts like a necessary law to restore some degree of discipline in a disposition that often can become chaotic. Divided in three parts, the album was recorded in a wine cellar in France (hence the title) using three gongs and a stainless steel sculpture made by the man himself. While the large part of the CD privileges a continuous virulent beat exalted by the natural reverberation of Hubback’s small arsenal, the final movement presents wider spaces and repeated moments of stasis which are all the more useful as a counter-attraction against the persistent ceremonials of the first two tracks. It takes a while to appreciate this release, but it works very well at the end.